Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Lovely Japan




Lovely Japan! We finally made it to your orderly shores. We flew from Busan to Osaka. We'd originally planned to catch the ferry to Fukuoka, however a ferocious typhoon changed our plans. Plus we are getting a bit tired, as we near the four month mark of our travels!

We easily picked up our ICOCA metro cards, which can be used in all major cities. Our pocket wifi router, which Richie pre ordered, was waiting for us at our hotel and we were all set to go. The train system is not as clear as Korea (I'm still in love with all things Korean, it's my favourite at the moment) because they have about 3 or 4 different train systems. The biggest killer is that each station has up to 20 exits - I kid you not - and the wrong exit can put you miles away, from where you thought you be!



Saturday night fever, Shinsaibashi, Osaka

As we arrived in Osaka on a Saturday, the hotel we wanted wasn't available until the Sunday. It seems weekends get booked early in Japan. However, we thought we'd make the best of the situation and decided to experience a capsule hotel for one night. 



Shinsaibashi scenes


It was difficult to find one that had capsules for both men and women - most are for men only. We eventually booked the Asahi Plaza Hotel in Shinsaibashi. We took a train from the airport to Namba station - well that was an eye opener! Saturday night in Namba is like News Years Eve in Picadilly Circus! People everywhere and each more fascinating than the last! There we were wandering around with our cases, fighting our way through the throngs of Saturday night partiers, trying to find our hotel! Just as well we have only the hand luggage! We eventually located our hotel, through trial and error and unreliable Google Maps - damn your eyes Google Maps!


This is the morning after. It might not look it - but that's me well rested!



What, no view?


After dumping our bags, we headed back out into the wild Osaka evening and we found a fabulous Takiyaki bar in Shinsaibashi. We spent a great evening stuffing ourselves with fried octopus balls and beer. Japanese restaurant staff, shout a huge greeting when you enter, another huge shout of appreciation whenever you order and a several more huge shouts goodbye - it really makes for a fun night - and makes you feel like a really important and loved guest. Of course we have no idea what they were shouting, but after a few beers and wines, we decided they were shouting "Norm"!



First night in Osaka, Takiyaki bar number one!


After our riotous evening, we duly arrived at our capsule hotel and Richard went one way, upstairs to the Mens floor and I went t'other, downstairs to the floor for Ladies.

I hadn't figured out the whole bath etiquette - it was quite daunting, especially after a few wines. I poked my head into the steam room and saw a couple of thin, ghostly white naked figures and quickly scurried off. I've never been one for public nakedness, so being the dirty pom that I really am - I settled for a good old fashioned APC, put on my hotel supplied pajamas and crawled into my capsule. I slept surprisingly well. 


Poetic version of events



I think Capsule Hotels are a great cheap option - if you were travelling alone or with someone of the same sex. Next time though, I'll get a handle on the bathing etiquette and go for it (possibly might shave my legs first though!


Am I in Sanur? Oh no, it's Osaka!




We spent the next four days at the Bali Towers Hotel - too cute! They really had captured the feel of Bali, the same annoying bing, bong music was playing in the lobby and there was a delicate waft of incense. This was our first Japanese hotel and I couldn't believe all the free stuff they give you. In the lobby was a big display of huge bottles of lotions and potions you could help yourself to - shame we only have hand luggage! 


Our warung, Bali Towers hotel


However, I did get stuck into the bath salts and face masks. Our room had even more unguents and potions! Another fabulous space age toilet, this one even played music to cover any inappropriate human noises, a slipper sterilizer, a face steamer, a microwave, a humidifier, DVD player - you name it - it had everything that opens and closes - oh except anywhere to hang your clothes ! Still in spite of the teeny tiny size of the room, it was a lovely hotel. Oh I nearly forgot the free wine and puddings in the lobby!


Osaka Castle




We spent a few lazy days visiting Osaka Castle and the Osaka History Museum, (trying to outrun all the school children); visited the Tennoji Gardens (from the outside - 'cos it was full of kids and we were too mean to pay an entrance fee) had drinks at the Umeda Sky Tower - not overly impressive - especially when you've seen the sexy Petronus Towers. 


Found a couple more Takiyaki bars and conquered the confusing metro system. Osaka seems to have as many shops and restaurants underground, as it does above ground. We ducked down lots of small alley ways and ate in little places with no English menus. The Japanese are so friendly and polite - that you manage to order something interesting - even if it's not what you thought. 



Boo hoo, it's all head and no beer!


Takiyaki Bar no. 2

Next stop Hiroshima. We have booked all our hotels for the rest of our trip now and all our transport except train from Kyoto to Tokyo. We had to have a flight out of Japan booked, to be allowed into the country, then we found hotels get booked really quickly - so we bit the bullet and booked up flights, buses and hotels until we get home. Oh home - I miss fatty!



Scenes of Osaka, as seen by Richie!







Bye bye Osaka, our first taste of Japan, was fabulous. Now we'll see what the Japanese bus service is all about. We are catching the Willer Bus to Hiroshima in the morning - have to get up at 5am - not happy Jan!

Friday, 24 October 2014

Gyeongju, Busan and fare thee well Korea, 'til next time



We enjoyed a very civilised bus journey from Seoul to Gyeong-ju. Clean and comfortable with huge seats, music softly playing in our headrests, and very orderly buses. 

Richie enroute to Gyeong-ju


The rest stops, which were every 90 minutes (much to Richies relief) had about 20 toilets, for the women alone! All with essential bum washing and drying equipment!


Not the usual 20 minute queue, waiting for 2 smelly toilets that we are used to at an Australian roadhouse..... honestly we are a bit uncivilised! 

Beautiful views, at rest stop on way to Gyeongju - and the scenery was not too bad either.



Richie with delicious meat stick at bus rest stop (...too easy!) 



Gyeongju, proved to be a green and restful change from busy Seoul and also offered our first experience of a Love Hotel! Lots of free lotions and potions and condoms and free coffee in the lobby, very friendly staff and a strange hidden entrance, so no one can see you leave! Our room also had a massive spa bath, a glass sterilizer and the magic toilet (which we've begun to take for granted).


Lotions, potions, unguents of all kind and other things - essential in a Love Motel



The N Love Motel, shiny and new, come aboard..... we're expecting you.

View from the N Love Motel window.



It was a bit dark and dingy or you could say romantic and alluring, depending on your view! Our hotel, The N Hotel, was right next to some of the ancient burial tombs from the Shila dynasty. Actually they look like giant green hills!

Interesting flower displays, Gyeong-ju


Gyeong-ju is a fairly small town, so we conquered it pretty quickly. We visited the History Museum, which was a bit lame, so just as well it had free entry. We learnt all about the Shila Dynasty and their obsession with all things gold and shiny. 



Traditional Korean dress.

We were also fortunate enough to catch a weekend festival. It took us a while to figure out what the giant cotton wool headed women were about! Well we think we figured it out - it was some kind of harvest celebration. 

Me queueing for free food, Gyeong-ju festival


Giant cotton wool heads, Gyeong-ju festival


And, as is the Ajayi way, we managed to fit in some pretty fabulous meals. We tried out a traditional Korean meal, 15 dishes, sitting on the floor. A couple of bottles of Soju made the floor seating a bit more bearable - but we are just not made that way and our old bones were aching at the end of the meal!

Gun Bae!


This was only first course!

Our other favourite Gyeong-ju bar.





Busan was our next and last port of call in Korea. Another smooth and relaxing bus ride and one hour later we reached Busan, which is Koreas', second largest city and most famous beach resort. We rented an AIRBNB apartment for the week. It was on the 34th floor, two blocks from the beach, had everything you could possibly want, that opened and closed! It was great to spread out and relax a bit. 

Our Airbnb, home away from home, Busan.


Enjoying a cuppa, just another day in the Ajayis' travels











On our first day, we did a massive grocery shop and enjoyed a few nights eating at home. We've learnt that when you're on the road for such a long time - you need to rest up and do normal things sometimes. We also knocked off a few bottles of Suju to complement the home made dinners!

Some of the silly things you see in Busan!






We caught up with a Couch Surfer, Jin, for one evening and she showed us some of the sights of down town Busan. 

Our new friend, Jin, on way to Gwangalli Beach




We had lunch at Shinsegae, the worlds biggest department store - think Myers on steroids - with the same Mrs Slocombe type products, but a great food hall!


Sign says it all!


We hung around the beach, a great deal and found some excellent street food stalls. 

Awesome, handmade dumplings for lunch, Busan Beach market.


I thought of Dad, he would have loved some jelly eels!


Beautiful Busan, but I still gave up and starting drinking beer!









Messing about in Busan












We were a bit sad to leave Korea, it is a lovely country. One of the best things about visiting a new country, is that you don't realise what pre-concieved ideas you have, until you find yourself being surprised. We definitely plan to return to Korea, there is still so much to see, it is such a beautiful country and the people couldn't be more delightful. Some of my favourite things: roasted chestnuts, the beautiful autumn scenery, people stopping to assist you whenever you look at a map, the worlds' best subway, the delicious pork,  the efficient and relaxing bus travel and the exquisite manners of the Korean people! 

너무 오래, 한국, 내 마음이 당신에 게 속한, 지금



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